VWvortex Forums > Hybrid/Swap Forum > MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (Printable Version)
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Post Title: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap
Posted by: elRey at 4:13 PM 8-27-2008
MK4/MKIV 2.0L AEG/AZG + 16v head swap
This is a budget build... $35 for 16v head, $50 for pistons/rods, etc
work in progress. I'm lacking some aluminum welding of a TB relocation bend.
t-belt -> 2004 LEXUS GS300 L6 3.0 Liter FI
head bolts -> 91290A560
-> http://www.mcmaster.com/ (Issam Abed now offers ARP studs for this application.)
I swapped 9A pistons and rods into a AZG/BEV block. The pistions had to be machined a bit to clear the oil squiters.
AZG - modified 9A -
stock 9A
1.8T hybrid steel bottom oil pan... you never know when you might need an
oil return line 
AZG/BEV bottom end
assembled with 16v 9A
rods and pistons. I reused the mk4 rod bearings and piston
rings.:
now some attention to the center of the swap, the 16v head:
new stem seals, fine sanded all bearing and lifter surfaces and cleaned all
gasket surfaces.
Clean carbon off valves:
head's assembled and time for mockups:
need to relocate TB:
MK4 coolant flange
-> 16v head
adapter:
I'll be fitting a 20v CPS hall senosr wheel onto the 16v dizzy and use the dizzy
as the CPS:
Using an earlier AEG downpipe to mate with 16v exhaust mani. Having O2
bung welded on:
Thanks,
Rey
Modified by elRey at 11:39 AM
7-21-2009
Post Title:
Posted by:
71DubBugBug at 1:28 AM 8-31-2008
thats a unique idea
good luck!
Post Title: Re: (71DubBugBug)
Posted by: elRey at 2:37 AM 9-7-2008
8v out.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted
by: elRey at 1:54 AM 9-8-2008
tranny separated and old 8v up on stand:
front end swung open leaving A/C lines connected, waiting for 16v:
older brother watching, remembering it's awkward swap (mk4 2.0L AZG + turbo from
1.8t):
a little fancy hoist driving and 16v is docked:
exhaust connected, coolant hoses, wiring, accesories on:
Modified by elRey at 1:55 AM 9-8-2008
Modified by elRey
at 2:06 AM 9-8-2008
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted
by: djpj06 at 2:03 AM 9-8-2008
COOL!
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (elRey)
Posted by: rychas1 at 5:50 AM 9-8-2008
man rey, i thought i had the hybrid edge...u have a double-edged sword!
i have transmission ideas for adjusting shift points 
u make me wanna keep mine 
Post Title:
Posted by: fastgermancar at 7:37 AM 9-8-2008
niice
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (elRey)
Posted by: Veedubgti at 12:08 PM 9-8-2008
Watching!
Post Title:
Posted by: microzimmer at 8:44 PM 9-9-2008
in for the watch
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: elRey at 12:41 AM 9-10-2008
started it up tonight.
first I pulled the fuel pump and injector fuse and I disconnected the coil pack and ran the starter for a minute to get the fresh oil circulating.
I then replace the fuel pump fuse and cycled the ign a few times to look for any fuel leaks.
Then I replaced the injector fuse and reconnected the coil pack.
It fired right up. Though, with a major exhaust leak that I knew about and #4 cyl misfiring. I only let it idle for a minute.
The exhaust leak is from a threaded hole in the mani I have yet to find a bolt to plug it. The misfire... I don't know yet. I have to address the pancaking silicone bend after the TB before I start it up again.
.
.
.
still have to:
1) torque the drive shaft flanges
2) find/fab a dizzy
cover
3) figure out intake
4) lengthen MAF wires
5) address silicone
after TB
6) find bolt to plug hole in exhaust mani
7) address #4 cyl
misfire (God willing, this will go away)
Modified by elRey at
12:44 AM 9-10-2008
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: rychas1 at 5:58 AM 9-10-2008
awesome job rey. just awesome. we should meet up for a auto 16v ride
Post Title: Re: (rychas1)
Posted by: elRey at 1:57 AM 9-11-2008
| Quote, originally posted by rychas1 » |
| awesome job rey. just awesome. we should meet up for a
auto 16v ride
|
Thanks man. Let me make sure it'll stay together, but after that, sure! But I
would never expect it to keep up with yours.
Post Title:
Re: (elRey)
Posted by: gobaroonie20 at 9:13 AM 9-11-2008
From the noob corner...inspired
, you have laid the blue prints for my winter project. I am painting my chariot
now and the engine is next. What's the biggest hurdle you have had to overcome
so far in this project?
I'll be watching..
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted by: The Kilted
Yaksman at 12:25 PM 9-12-2008
Subscibed for a super sweet build. This should have been the base engine in the MkIV!
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (The Kilted Yaksman)
Posted by: elRey at 11:19 PM 9-16-2008
It been running for 600 miles now:
Post
Title: Re: FV-QR (elRey)
Posted by: microzimmer at 11:24 PM
9-16-2008
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
|
|
very clean
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (elRey)
Posted by: 2doorV6 at 12:59 AM 9-17-2008
cool swap
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (2doorV6)
Posted by: 71sbeetle at 11:22 AM 9-17-2008
so, what are the difference in feel from the 8V to the 16V ? noticeable ? gas mileage ?
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (elRey)
Posted by: IFlyGTI at 3:54 PM 9-20-2008
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
|
|
You are my new hero. I was curious about what other people are watching and stumbled across this thread. I honestly had to dig through my ETKA to make sure they didn't actually offer this combo somewhere (besides here). Looks pretty factory to me & for that, I grant you
and a 
.Post Title: Re: FV-QR (microzimmer)
Posted by: CodeMan at 10:06 PM 9-20-2008
| Quote, originally posted by microzimmer » |
very clean
|
Agreed. It looks so right.
Post Title: Re: FV-QR
(CodeMan)
Posted by: gogogadget at 4:27 PM 9-21-2008
bump for hp gains, differences before and after, woudl love to do this to my mkiv over winter
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (71sbeetle)
Posted by: randallhb at 9:19 PM 9-28-2008
| Quote, originally posted by 71sbeetle » |
| so, what are the difference in feel from the 8V to the 16V ? noticeable ? gas mileage ? |
Yes, to the OP please tell us about gains, feel, how it drives,
etc.
Modified by randallhb at 8:23 PM
9-28-2008
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (elRey)
Posted
by: sickmind at 6:30 PM 9-30-2008
I was just wondering what plug wires you used and how you went about setting up the dizzy as the CPS ,
Post Title:
Posted by: 16VTrash at 8:30 PM 10-2-2008
gotta see
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (sickmind)
Posted by: SMG8vT at 7:55 PM 10-3-2008
| Quote, originally posted by sickmind » |
| I was just wondering what plug wires you used and how you went about setting up the dizzy as the CPS , |
Wondering the same thing myself. SICK build man, congrats.
Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 9:47
PM 10-8-2008
x2 also did you have to change the intermediate shaft gears and what not like the aba guys? or is this entire motor mk4 minus head pistons rods and timming belt?
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by: elRey at 10:01 PM 10-8-2008
| Quote, originally posted by 2LTurbo » |
| or is this entire motor mk4 minus head pistons rods and timming belt? |
excatly
Post Title:
Posted by:
2LTurbo at 10:09 PM 10-8-2008
wtf ?! how! seriously the aba guys say it CANT be done without switching those other things... also how did you tackle the CPS man?
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by: elRey at 10:15 PM 10-8-2008
CPS is in the thread....
stock 16v distributor
+ 20v trigger wheel
I cut/grind the 16v trigger wheel down just
enough to slide the 20v wheel over it, then tack welded it.
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
| I'll be fitting a 20v CPS hall senosr wheel onto the 16v dizzy and use the
dizzy as the CPS: |
Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 10:20 PM 10-8-2008
elray i love you, why wont you answer my pm's
haha for a turbo setup would you recommend the 9a pistons or can i use my brand
new aeg pistons i bought and just notch them? Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 11:31 PM 10-8-2008
oh also what did you use for head bolts?
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by: elRey at 11:48 PM 10-8-2008
| Quote, originally posted by 2LTurbo » |
| oh also what did you use for head bolts? |
91290A560 -> http://www.mcmaster.com/
Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 12:11 AM 10-9-2008
what about using arp head studs. would i use the 16v ones or 8v ones?
Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 12:22 AM 10-9-2008
sorry i know i must sound like a lil girl. im just excited, but where did you get the MK4 coolant flange -> 16v head adapter:
Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 1:36 AM 10-9-2008
and did you use the 16v cam gear?
Post Title:
Posted by: Audi4u at 7:26 PM 10-9-2008
nice swap, what caused the cyl4 misfire?
I was talking about doing this swap in a mk3 to a friend last week.
Post Title: Re: (Audi4u)
Posted by: elRey at 8:31 PM 10-9-2008
| Quote, originally posted by Audi4u » |
| nice swap, what caused the
cyl4 misfire? I was talking about doing this swap in a mk3 to a friend last week. |
loose plug wire
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted
by: eastcobbler at 1:53 AM 10-10-2008
amazing stuff! I wish i had your levels of motivation & creativity!
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by: PantyBeef at 2:56 AM 10-10-2008
What did you have to do to the ECU, if anything? Looks SWEET man!
Post Title: Re: (PantyBeef)
Posted by: elRey at 1:15 PM 10-11-2008
| Quote, originally posted by PantyBeef » |
| What did you have to do to the ECU, if anything? Looks SWEET man! |
Nothing at all and thanks.
Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo
at 1:56 PM 10-11-2008
how much for that coolant flange adapter
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by: elRey at 2:56 PM 10-11-2008
coolant flange adpater was design and CAD drawn by me. A local dubber that worked at a machine shop cut it for me as a favor. It's a one of a kind. And the guy no longer works at the maching shop (hope my favor didn't get him fired
)Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 3:34 PM 10-11-2008
how much you want for the CAD drawing? not interested in mass producing, just wanna cut one for myself
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: at_the_speed_of_2.l0w at 7:56 PM 10-11-2008
And so, how does it drive? How does it feel? How's the gas mileage?
Post Title:
Posted by: 2LTurbo at 2:11 AM 10-23-2008
i am...... i also want elrays coolant flang
pm me issamPost Title: Re: (at_the_speed_of_2.l0w)
Posted by: doodpod at 12:15 PM 10-28-2008
| Quote, originally posted by at_the_speed_of_2.l0w » |
| And so, how does it drive? How does it feel? How's the gas mileage? |
X2
Updates?
Post Title: Re: (doodpod)
Posted by:
BuPsychBass at 9:28 AM 10-31-2008
wow man... nice
Post Title: Re: (BuPsychBass)
Posted by: JIIP at 9:02 PM 11-12-2008
info on this?
Post Title: Re: (JIIP)
Posted by: cis8vgti at 6:14 PM 11-26-2008
Watch BUMP.
Nice skills...
Post Title: Re: (cis8vgti)
Posted by:
elRey at 3:46 PM 12-15-2008
I just finished a 5-spd manual swap on the car. So, watch for dyno numbers in the near future.
Post Title:
Posted by: paulh08 at 12:09 AM 12-24-2008
Yeah hows the engine feel now?
Post Title:
Posted by: EyeDoughnutNo at 3:19 PM 1-11-2009
sweet...
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted by: ratdub at 9:16 PM 1-11-2009
saving this for updates...very interested...
Post Title: Re:
Posted by: VR6andCabbyMan at 2:40 PM 1-13-2009
Interesting swap. Looks like your total cost wouldnt have been more than a few hundred dollars if that?
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted by: MFZERO at 6:15 PM 1-14-2009
dude that's rad
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (MFZERO)
Posted by: SoLater'd at 6:30 PM 1-14-2009
| Quote, originally posted by MFZERO » |
| dude that's rad |
This Guy said it...
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted by: Craige-O at 6:54 PM 1-14-2009
Simply AWESOME!!
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (Craige-O)
Posted by: MK2TDI at 7:18 PM 1-22-2009
Anything new to report on this? What did you use to cover the CPS wheel in the distributor?
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (MK2TDI)
Posted by: TightDub at 11:59 AM 1-24-2009
Missed the build but this is awesome
Post Title:
Posted by: V8Star at 7:25 PM 1-24-2009
Is this smog-able? How much did the entire build cost you?
Also, if this is Smog-able in CA then you should seriously think about
building kits for the mk4 16v swap. Could make a lot of
money.
Post Title: Re: (V8Star)
Posted by:
luv2exl8t at 1:09 PM 1-27-2009
cool swap man
Post Title:
Posted by: VWproracer at 4:16 PM 1-30-2009
is that a 1.8l head? were the stock 2.0 piston too low of a CR?
Post Title: Re: (VWproracer)
Posted by: elRey at 4:28 PM 1-30-2009
| Quote, originally posted by VWproracer » |
| is that a 1.8l head? were the stock 2.0 piston too low of
a CR? |
2.0L head. But it either will work.
All CR info and valve-to-piston clearance issues can be had in the ABA16v
thread -> lets get a ABA 16v Parts List/FAQ Thread
going
Modified by elRey at 4:30 PM
1-30-2009
Post Title:
Posted by:
2LTurbo at 4:49 PM 1-30-2009
yes wich is why he used the 9a pistons
Post Title:
Posted by: AlenGTI1.8T at 10:00 PM 2-4-2009
amazing build, and this car is not just crusin round town , saw it go from ATl to Alabama for the APR BBQ , when he opened hood lot of people were in disbelief
amazing
Post Title: Re: (AlenGTI1.8T)
Posted
by: elRey at 9:13 AM 2-13-2009
Update:
daily driven (hard):
Post
Title:
Posted by: vwandabmw at 10:12 AM 2-13-2009
awesome project! I am not too familiar with the 16vmotors, but is your 16v head from a mk2, or a scirocco? I was looking into doing the 2 liter 16v motor from a passat into my golf, not sure how the power #'s would compare?
Thanks
Post Title: Re: (V8Star)
Posted by:
elRey at 10:54 AM 2-13-2009
| Quote, originally posted by V8Star » |
| Is this smog-able? How much did the entire build cost you?
Also, if this is Smog-able in CA then you should seriously think about building kits for the mk4 16v swap. Could make a lot of money. |
head - $35
intake and exhaust manifolds - $30
pistons/rods -
$50
piston modification - $62
fuel rail - ~$75
fpr adapter -
$90
spark plug wires - ~$40
digi injector seats - $20
16v dizzy hall
sensor - $35 (dizzy I got free)
TB abapter flanges and silicone coupler -
$110
Lexus T-belt - $22
head bolts - $15
CAI - $35
K&N cone
filter - $35
1.8T cam gear - $45
1.8T hall sensor wheel - $20
coolant
flange adapter - free
all gaskets and misc hardware and hoses - ~$120 (<-
shot in the dark guess)
I'm sure that's not everything.
Modified by elRey at 12:44 PM
2-13-2009
Post Title:
Posted by:
just-in at 11:03 AM 2-13-2009
Nice Work
Post Title:
Posted by: DWP at 3:40 PM 2-13-2009
Sweet build buddy, my bro an I are looking to emulate this in his 00' Jetta sedan. Thanks for listing the basic bits n pieces.
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted by: The Kilted Yaksman at 5:01 PM 2-14-2009
Right about 140hp and 150ft/lb of torks. Nice! Definitely what should have been the stock base engine.
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted by: the_q_jet at 5:37 AM 3-5-2009
nice build are you still using me7 ecu??... el did you ever dyno that k03 2.0 setup?
Modified by the_q_jet at 5:45 AM 3-5-2009
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (the_q_jet)
Posted by: elRey at 4:36 PM 3-18-2009
| Quote, originally posted by the_q_jet » |
| nice build are you still using me7 ecu??... el did you ever dyno that k03 2.0 setup? |
Yes, stock ME7.5 management.
Wagon just passed emissions with flying colors.
Modified by
elRey at 10:10 PM 3-22-2009
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: rtbtitans50 at 10:04 PM 3-22-2009
nice swap
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (elRey)
Posted by: doodpod at 10:17 AM 4-13-2009
Just curious, how did you deal with the SAI? I don't see it in any of your pics.
Post Title: Re: (V8Star)
Posted by: nick526 at 4:33 AM 4-14-2009
| Quote, originally posted by V8Star » |
| if this is Smog-able in CA. |
Nope. Won't pass visual unless the tech is very careless.
Modified
by nick526 at 1:35 AM 4-14-2009
Post Title: Re: FV-QR
(doodpod)
Posted by: elRey at 3:59 PM 4-16-2009
| Quote, originally posted by doodpod » |
| Just curious, how did you deal with the SAI? I don't see it in any of your pics. |
I never put the SAI back in. GA doesn't require visual inspection.
BUT, you could go the extra mile and use the SAI pump bracket and hoses from
an 1.8T to relocate the pump down near the oil pan. Then do some custom piping
to the back of the exhaust mani. The mani has a threaded port you could use. I
just plug it with a bolt.
Post Title: Re: FV-QR
(elRey)
Posted by: doodpod at 5:39 PM 4-16-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
|
I never put the SAI back in. GA doesn't require visual inspection. BUT, you could go the extra mile and use the SAI pump bracket and hoses from an 1.8T to relocate the pump down near the oil pan. Then do some custom piping to the back of the exhaust mani. The mani has a threaded port you could use. I just plug it with a bolt. |
I'm sorry, I should have been more specific - I figured you'd just relocated
it since I couldn't see it. If you eliminated it, and are running stock
management, do you have a CEL? Or do you know a trick for not tripping the CEL
(resistor or otherwise?)
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (doodpod)
Posted by:
elRey at 6:29 PM 4-16-2009
No. I know there's a period of time after you clear codes and when the ECU runs the SAI diagnostic test on the SAI enough times to throw a DTC and CEL. I reset the codes and force all readiness codes except SAI. GA emissions allows for one readiness to be failed/incomplete. So, I got it tested with all but that one SAI readiness code set and before the incorrect flow DTC shows up.
CEL shows up eventually.
Why would a visual inspection fail if the SAI is present, just relocated. Do
the inspectors know where the SAI pump is located for ever model and
engine?
Modified by elRey at 6:30 PM
4-16-2009
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (elRey)
Posted
by: all-starr-me at 1:17 AM 4-19-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
Why would a visual inspection fail if the SAI is present, just relocated. Do the inspectors know where the SAI pump is located for ever model and engine? |
it wouldn't, it would fail for having the wrong cylinder head in place, plus a diiferent intake, omong other things. california sucks. on second thought you probably would fail just for moving the air pump, even if you kept it.
this is what VW should have done from the factory in the mk4's, but maybe a
cleaner looking intake and some work on the head. The AEG and later 2.0's are
the worst engines ever, I would rather have a G60 without the
charger.
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (all-starr-me)
Posted
by: 16vturbo gti at 9:11 AM 4-23-2009
wtf?
some one relised that a 16v is better then a 1.8t 
nice workPost Title: Re: FV-QR (16vturbo gti)
Posted by: MK1 Rabbit GTI at 12:12 AM 4-28-2009
they use a lot of 16v's in europe
Post Title: Re: FV-QR (MK1 Rabbit GTI)
Posted by: Shifty at 1:39 PM 5-14-2009
My God I love it man. I might just go this route on the wifes build.
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by: duke_seb at 6:14 PM 5-16-2009
do you have info on those machined parts that you made?......
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 7:03 PM 5-16-2009
anyone know of any reason why this swap wouldnt work on a BEV 2L
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (duke_seb)
Posted by: Shifty at 1:32 AM 5-18-2009
I started ordering parts tonight and my wife and I began pulling out the 2.slow.
Post
Title: Re: (DWP)
Posted by: Shifty at 5:23 PM 5-18-2009
Was the TB flange custom made as well?
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: elRey at 5:28 PM 5-18-2009
| Quote, originally posted by Shifty » |
| Was the TB flange custom made as well? |
this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1949/MkII_T_Body_Adaptor_to_3
plus the TB side of this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1763/BBM_T_Body_Adaptor_MkII_to_MkIII - call them, they will sell just the TB flange.
and a silicone coupler.
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: Shifty at 6:35 PM 5-18-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
|
this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1949/MkII_T_Body_Adaptor_to_3 plus the TB side of this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1763/BBM_T_Body_Adaptor_MkII_to_MkIII - call them, they will sell just the TB flange. and a silicone coupler. |
Thanks bro.
I called them and asked about one earlier today, they said it wasn't
available.
Tonight I'm ordering my BBM parts and pulling the motor. Hopefully everything
goes smoothly... just found out my machinist closed shop and moved to Utah three
weeks ago so I need to find someone else I trust to do my machine work... 
Edit: Just called BBM again, apparently the adapter isn't available after
all. They're sold out and none are scheduled to be machined until next month at
the soonest.
x2
Modified by Shifty at 5:39 PM 5-18-2009
Post
Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: elRey at 7:46 PM 5-18-2009
| Quote, originally posted by Shifty » |
|
Thanks bro. I called them and asked about one earlier today, they said it wasn't
available. Tonight I'm ordering my BBM parts and pulling the motor. Hopefully
everything goes smoothly... just found out my machinist closed shop and
moved to Utah three weeks ago so I need to find someone else I trust to do
my machine work... Edit: Just called BBM again, apparently the adapter isn't available
after all. They're sold out and none are scheduled to be machined until
next month at the soonest.
|
I can sell mine for what I paid. LMK.
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: Shifty at 11:24 PM 5-18-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
|
I can sell mine for what I paid. LMK. |
PM sent.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 10:46 AM 5-19-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
|
I can sell mine for what I paid. LMK. |
do u still have it?.... ill pay today
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: doodpod at 4:20 PM 5-20-2009
What injectors did you use?
Post Title: Re: (doodpod)
Posted by: elRey at 4:40 PM 5-20-2009
I used BWW or BEV injectors with a 4bar fpr only because they don't need a fresh-air hose running to them.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: Shifty at 6:32 PM 5-20-2009
Hey elrey, I sent another PM regarding that TB adapter. Thanks!
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: elRey at 9:55 PM 5-20-2009
Replied
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: doodpod at 9:32 AM 5-21-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
| I used BWW or BEV injectors with a 4bar fpr only because they don't need a fresh-air hose running to them. |
Any chance it might make more power with a dual-spray cone injector? The
smallest ones on USRT's website are 315cc units; dunno if that'd be too much for
the stock management to compensate for. Maybe stock 1.8t units would
work?
Post Title: Re: (doodpod)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 11:23 AM 5-21-2009
incase anyone is looking for specs on that coolant adaptor let me know.... im having one made and it costing me 300 bucks for the custom work.... ill sell the specs to ya for cheap so you can get your made for cheaper
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 12:00 PM 5-21-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| incase anyone is looking for specs on that coolant adaptor let me know.... im having one made and it costing me 300 bucks for the custom work.... ill sell the specs to ya for cheap so you can get your made for cheaper |
you mean this?
Post
Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 12:01 PM
5-21-2009
AWESEOM..... you rock!
you might same me some cash
Post Title: Re:
(duke_seb)
Posted by: duke_seb at 12:06 PM 5-21-2009
do you have any non moving diagrams with measurements?
Post Title: Re: (vwandabmw)
Posted by: duke_seb at 3:18 PM 5-21-2009
ok.... I just got them to design the piece for me..... but one thing I didnt think about until now is y not just get a piece made that the same as the plastic flange and then weld the 16V piece to it then obviously cut off and well the other opening shut
i dont know but it seems to me that would be a little
cheaper?
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by:
Yurko at 3:49 PM 5-21-2009
gruvenparts might help you out.
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 4:08 PM 5-21-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| ok.... I just got them to design the piece for me..... but
one thing I didnt think about until now is y not just get a piece made
that the same as the plastic flange and then weld the 16V piece to it then
obviously cut off and well the other opening shut
i dont know but it seems to me that would be a little cheaper? |
That's fine until for whatever reason you need to replace the head. Then you
have to have all that custom work done again.
Post Title:
Re: (elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 4:09 PM 5-21-2009
y would that be you can still unbolt the 16v flange and away you go
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: duke_seb at 4:20 PM 5-21-2009
this is what i mean
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: Shifty at 11:57 PM 5-21-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| this is what i mean |
It took me a second to get on board with that idea, but it does seem like a
cheaper alternative for us non-CAD-using folk! I was getting ready to try
fab'ing something out of 1/2" aluminum plate by hand tomorrow... I think I'm
going to try that instead.
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 8:17 AM 5-22-2009
after thinking abot this some more.... i have to take a look at the 16v flange..... its at the machine shop..... I am going to see if i can cut both of the pipes on the flange and then weld both to the plate then you have 2 ports coming into the head
Post Title: Re: (DWP)
Posted by: duke_seb at 3:39 PM 5-22-2009
alright i started on fabricating my version of the mount today here are some pictures
i intend on welding that side hole shut
Post Title: Re:
(duke_seb)
Posted by: Shifty at 3:54 PM 5-22-2009
Cool deal man! Why didn't you cut it closer to the head and eliminate that second tube altogether?
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: duke_seb at 3:56 PM 5-22-2009
i thought about that but then i wouldnt be able to get the bolts into the holes to put into the head
| Quote, originally posted by Shifty » |
| Cool deal man! Why didn't you cut it closer to the head and eliminate that second tube altogether? |
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: Shifty at 4:29 PM 5-22-2009
Roger that, thanks. Keep us posted as to how it works!
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: duke_seb at 4:33 PM 5-22-2009
i will.... i think im going to make another DIY for this.... with everything from replacing rod bearings to whatever use i have to do..... with lots of pictures
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: duke_seb at 2:47 PM 5-25-2009
alright i got the piece welded together today here are some pics
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
Shifty at 3:16 PM 5-26-2009
Someone mentioned to me that I have a Rocco exhaust mani and that it appears you're using an A2 mani. I assume the Rocco one will not work?
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by: duke_seb at 9:14 AM 5-27-2009
ok here is the question i have..... i ordered a 16V Fuel Rail from bahn brenner... but i dont think i have the right one.... can someone tell me if both of these will work?
and
do i have to have this part in order to make it work?
Modified by duke_seb at 10:16 AM 5-27-2009
Modified by
duke_seb at 10:16 AM 5-27-2009
Post Title: Re:
(duke_seb)
Posted by: doodpod at 12:32 PM 5-27-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| do i have to have this part in order to make it
work? |
Yes.
Post Title: Re: (doodpod)
Posted by:
Shifty at 3:43 PM 5-27-2009
BBM told me I could use either one of those adapters. they said you only need the canister style if you want to retain the stock MkIV reg. Might give them a call for more details, but i'm sure you can make it work.
Post Title: Re: (Audi4u)
Posted by: duke_seb at 8:56 PM 5-27-2009
OK im looking through the bentley and I have a BEV engine correct me if im wrong here but with the BEV the FPR is part of the fuel filter back by the tank..... I just want to be sure before i do this but i should be able to run the fuel line right to the fuel rail without a FPR Adaptor correct?
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: duke_seb at 9:00 PM 5-27-2009
here is an example of what my engine looks like
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by:
Shifty at 9:29 PM 5-27-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| here is an example of what my engine looks like
|
Huh. Makes sense to me. My car has the FPR there at the end of the rail so I
went with the "canister" adapter.
Post Title: Re:
(Shifty)
Posted by: duke_seb at 9:32 PM 5-27-2009
if thats the case.... it looks like the BEV and BBW engine is a litle easier
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: duke_seb at 9:36 PM 5-27-2009
| Quote, originally posted by Shifty » |
|
Huh. Makes sense to me. My car has the FPR there at the end of the rail so I went with the "canister" adapter. |
my MKIII had it at the end too.... when i popped the hood to do some research
i thought i was retarted.... I was like.... where they hell is that stupid
thing..... i was following the fuel line and everything.... went back to the
bentley and i noticed it was missing from the BBW engine diagram..... and then i
thought OMG i have the dredded BBW..... but from what i can tell BBW only came
on Jettas..... but then i verfied it in the car and in the manual that BEV and
BBW both have the FPR back in the tank
Post Title: Re:
(duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 9:47 PM 5-27-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| if thats the case.... it looks like the BEV and BBW engine is a litle easier |
until you want to upgrade your fueling
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 9:47 PM 5-27-2009
im not planning anything special..... just want to have a stock 16V
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 9:53 PM 5-27-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| im not planning anything special..... just want to have a stock 16V |
lol. so did I
in fact, I looked into swapping in the BWW/BEW fuel system to avoid needing a
FPR for a cleaner engine bay.
Modified by elRey at 9:56 PM
5-27-2009
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 10:01 PM 5-27-2009
haha.... no really im serious.... im already into this build for like 1500 bucks..... its not the big stuff that gets you its the little stuff... like orings and oil filters and oil and gaskets....etc etc.... ill be quite happy with a stock 16V.... once i get that one there im going to get C2 Software for more power and to get rid of the CEL from the SAI
my MKIII with a cam and chip couldnt even touch a stock 16V ..... and i drove
that for 6 years.... i might consider something else but then i have to replace
the FPR the Clutch ..... etc etc etc...eeeek
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 7:48 PM 5-30-2009
elrey what did you do about this vacuum port on the lower intake... i dont even see it on yours...... i looked through every opening on the lower intake and i cant even see where it even goes... but anyway I was thinking of running the Vacuum line that goes into the side of the MKIV 2L Upper intake and running it down to the lower one? what you think?
Modified by duke_seb at 8:54 PM
5-30-2009
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted
by: elRey at 12:57 AM 5-31-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| elrey what did you do about this vacuum port on the lower intake... i dont even see it on yours...... i looked through every opening on the lower intake and i cant even see where it even goes... but anyway I was thinking of running the Vacuum line that goes into the side of the MKIV 2L Upper intake and running it down to the lower one? what you think? |
It goes to the injectors. If you pull the old injector seats out and look at
threads you can see a hole. I left the port open. The digi injector seats cover
the inside hole. If you want you can just put a rubber vac plug over it. It will
not see vacuum.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted
by: elRey at 7:22 PM 5-31-2009
I took quick look back and I don't think I've posted my current setup (life beyond the head swap):
Modified
by elRey at 7:24 PM 5-31-2009
Post Title:
Posted by: duke_seb at 6:02 PM 6-1-2009
Alright I have quick question for you.... i noticed that you have a block off from the front coolant flange on the 16V..... can you explain to me how this works..... i mean im not totally sure what happens..... i assumed that with the 16V coolant came in through the side and went out threw the front?...... im probably wrong..... but is there openings in the bottom of the head to allow coolant to drain down and go into the block and out the MKIV front coolant flange?.....
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 11:46 PM 6-1-2009
16v head has all the same coolant ports as 8v head at the block mating surface. Coolant gets pushed up from the block to the head past the head gasket and then out the side thru the coolant flange.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: jettaiv4turbochrg at 12:36 PM 6-6-2009
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 6:55 AM 6-13-2009
ok elrey.... i missed the stupid cutout when i was trming the skirts..... so i dont have to take the engine apart to figure out where is supposed to be can you tell me which dot represents the spot where the cutout for the oil squiters is?
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v
head swap (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 8:52 AM 6-13-2009
I don't remember off hand, but the 1.8t guys should know. They're in the same spot on the 1.8t.
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 8:54 AM 6-13-2009
are they in the same spot as the original 2L 16V? cuz i have another one i have access to to look
Post Title: Re: MK4/MKIV 2.0L 8v AEG/AZG -> 16v head swap (duke_seb)
Posted by: duke_seb at 9:47 AM 6-13-2009
figured it out.... took my MKIV 2L piston to the dealer and asked them which way faced the belts.....
the notch is on the front of the engine
Post Title: Re:
(DWP)
Posted by: duke_seb at 12:55 PM 6-17-2009
Hey elrey can u tell me what the difference between 16v and mkiv rods are I have them side by side and I can't see a reason why u can't use the rods out of a mkiv
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 1:03 PM 6-17-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| Hey elrey can u tell me what the difference between 16v and mkiv rods are I have them side by side and I can't see a reason why u can't use the rods out of a mkiv |
I'm guessing you have AEG mk4 rods in front of you. While AEG rods do look similar to 9a rods, AZG/BEW rods are totally different.
20mm pin vs 19mm pin. straight cut vs tapered small ends. and 9a are beefier than AZG/BEW.
Even the AEG rods are slightly different and are not an exact fit into 9a
pistons. Or at least the pins. IIRC, the 9a pins are longer than AEG
pins.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 1:55 PM 6-17-2009
I actually have 1.8t rods and they look the same as the 9a ones.... Any reason I shouldn't use them I was told they are fine that they were just lighter
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 2:45 PM 6-17-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| I actually have 1.8t rods and they look the same as the 9a ones.... Any reason I shouldn't use them I was told they are fine that they were just lighter |
AEB rods or other 1.8T rods (AWD/AWW/AWP/APH. etc)?
AEB rods = 9a 16v rods.
all other 1.8T rods = AZG/BEW rods (for this purpose).
Post
Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 3:45 PM 6-17-2009
Well my 1.8t rods will work I realize now what u mean by tapered at the top after I compared them.... Problem I'm having now though is I have 19mm wrist pin holes and 20mm wrist pins I just ordered new wrist pin bushings at 20 a piece
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: duke_seb at 7:34 PM 6-17-2009
ok i sorted out my wrist pin problem.... just wondering something on a totally different topic.... the mcmaster headbolts are they they same specs as factory... do i torque them the same as standard bolts?.... are they stretch bolts?
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 8:37 PM 6-17-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| ok i sorted out my wrist pin problem.... just wondering something on a totally different topic.... the mcmaster headbolts are they they same specs as factory... do i torque them the same as standard bolts?.... are they stretch bolts? |
I torqued them the same as OEM. I don't know if they are stretch. I wouldn't
think so. They are 12.9 class bolts.
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 10:52 PM 6-17-2009
but this is what OEM says
Tightening torque
• Cylinder head to cylinder block
(stretch bolts -
always replace)
stage I 40 Nm (30 ft-Ib)
stage II additional % turn
(90°)
stage III additional % turn (90°
what did you do?
Post Title: Re:
(duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 1:08 AM 6-18-2009
| Quote, originally posted by duke_seb » |
| but this is what OEM says
Tightening torque what did you do? |
I did that.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted
by: duke_seb at 3:23 AM 6-18-2009
Good then they are stretch bolts
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: weeblebiker at 7:13 AM 6-23-2009
the mcmaster bolts ARE NOT stretch bolts!
they do not have the spiral fluting which allow the bolt to stretch. you risk deforming the headbolt seats or worse if you do the aditional turns.
I'd torque em how ever ARP head studs ar torqued
that said I need to read through this. I'm excited my 16v may be able to live
past my a1-a2 chassis
Post Title: Re:
(weeblebiker)
Posted by: Shifty at 11:26 AM 7-21-2009
| Quote, originally posted by weeblebiker » |
| the mcmaster bolts ARE NOT stretch bolts!
they do not have the spiral fluting which allow the bolt to stretch. you risk deforming the headbolt seats or worse if you do the aditional turns. I'd torque em how ever ARP head studs ar
torqued |
Good to know, thanks.
I do have one question before putting this thing together: what's the
compression ratio?
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
vwpat at 11:29 AM 7-21-2009
10.8:1 advertised, same as a 9A but may vary slightly due to the different headgasket.
Post Title: Re: (vwpat)
Posted by: elRey at 11:37 AM 7-21-2009
Issam Abed now offers ARP studs for this application.
I've been running 15psi daily on the 12.9 class bolts (your mileage may
vary), but when ever I do tear down the engine, I'll be calling
Issam.
Post Title: Re: (vwpat)
Posted by:
Shifty at 2:46 PM 7-21-2009
| Quote, originally posted by vwpat » |
| 10.8:1 advertised, same as a 9A but may vary slightly due to the different headgasket. |
Great, thank you.
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
elRey at 12:48 PM 9-29-2009
Post Title: FV-QR
Posted by: thatcrazylaxdude at 3:15 PM 9-30-2009
Great build and write up!
Post Title:
Posted by: sauron18 at 10:15 PM 10-6-2009
If i have a chip or a reflash on the ecu then i do the swap will be safe or i need to reprogram de ecu?
Modified by sauron18 at 7:15 AM 10-8-2009
Post Title: Re: (sauron18)
Posted by: elRey at 1:38 PM 10-16-2009
| Quote, originally posted by sauron18 » |
| If i have a chip or a reflash on the ecu then i do the swap will be safe or i need to reprogram de ecu? |
You'll be safe.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted
by: Shifty at 6:26 PM 10-18-2009
Alright guys I'm on the home stretch with the wife's build!
A couple questions:
-It looks like you have an adapter of some sort on the dizzy for the CPS plug? Am I mistaken? I don't have my dizzy yet, it should be here next week, I'm just trying to plan ahead...
-What plug wires and coil were used? 16 wires right? Somehow I either missed
that or forgot. 
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
elRey at 9:13 PM 10-18-2009
yes, 16v wires. Talyor wires #77282 from US Autoparts . stock mk4 8v coil pack. However, I had to make a small offset bracket so the coil pack would clear the head.
for the CPS I made an adapter /pigtail. One end from a mk2 dizzy connector & the other end from a spare mk4 CPS.
Modified by elRey at 9:19 PM 10-18-2009
Post
Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: elRey at 2:55 PM 10-19-2009
One more thing that I may have left out... 1.8T water pipe is needed. The 2.0L 8v one will interfere with the head.
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: Shifty at 6:17 PM 10-19-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
| for the CPS I made an adapter /pigtail. One end from a mk2
dizzy connector & the other end from a spare mk4
CPS. |
I was afraid of that. Wiring is not my forte. Anything tricky about that? (i.e.,
Which pin goes to which wire?)
When you say 1.8T water pipe, you are referring to the hard metal one correct?
Thanks for the replies elRey.
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
Shifty at 10:53 AM 11-1-2009
| Quote, originally posted by Shifty » |
|
Anything tricky about that? (i.e., Which pin goes to which wire?) |
Ours is ready to run, just need to figure this plug out and get the fuel and
vacuum connected.
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
elRey at 12:52 PM 11-1-2009
I'll check the pin# <-> pin# today when I regap my plugs
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: elRey at 2:26 PM 11-1-2009
For the CPS <-> dizzy hall sensor connector:
2.0 pin <-> 16v pin:
1 <-> 3
2 <-> 2
3 <-> 1
It's in reverse order.
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: Shifty at 3:16 PM 11-1-2009
You're the man.
I am trying to get the pin out of the distributor shaft today... not working.
Is there a way to get the hall sender off there without removing the shaft?!
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
Shifty at 10:12 AM 11-6-2009
OK I'm ready to put the wheel on there. You don't happen to have a pic of the relation of the notches before cutting the shaft?
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by: elRey at 4:47 PM 11-6-2009
I guess you're asking how the 1.8T wheel is postioned (turned) in relation to the dizzy shaft/cam key. All the pictures I have are posted in this thread. The best advise I can give is to
1) find a mk4 2.0L or 1.8T and look at it with motor set at TDC and note which way the trigger wheel turns. Determine without a shodow of a doubt which window's edge is TDC at the hall sensor.
2) mount the dizzy so you can adjust it both ways if needed. set motor AND head to TDC and note which way the dizzy turns. Then hold the 1.8T trigger wheel against the dizzy so that the previously determined TDC window edge is in the center of the dizzy hall sensor.
2) mark the 1.8T wheel and the dizzy shaft.
Done. (besides doing the work 
)
Modified
by elRey at 4:49 PM 11-6-2009
Post Title: Re:
(elRey)
Posted by: Shifty at 5:15 PM 11-6-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
| I guess you're asking how the 1.8T wheel is postioned
(turned) in relation to the dizzy shaft/cam key. All the pictures I have
are posted in this thread. The best advise I can give is to
1) find a mk4 2.0L or 1.8T and look at it with motor set at TDC and note which way the trigger wheel turns. Determine without a shodow of a doubt which window's edge is TDC at the hall sensor. 2) mount the dizzy so you can adjust it both ways if needed. set motor AND head to TDC and note which way the dizzy turns. Then hold the 1.8T trigger wheel against the dizzy so that the previously determined TDC window edge is in the center of the dizzy hall sensor. 2) mark the 1.8T wheel and the dizzy shaft. Done. (besides doing the work Modified by elRey at 4:49 PM 11-6-2009 |
Awesome bro. I once again appreciate it. Hopefully I an get the thing figured
out and fire the car up before next week. Just need to get the vac lines and
distributor installed and she's rollin! 
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 7:01 AM 11-13-2009
hey rey are you using the coolant flange on the front of the head or do you have it blocked off.... i was under the impressiong that coolant would flow in the side of the head and out the flange on the block correct me if im wrong... I have it blocked off right now but i cant see from your pictures what you did..... I was sure i read in one of your posts at one point it was blocked off
Post Title: Re: (duke_seb)
Posted by: elRey at 9:51 AM 11-13-2009
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: duke_seb at 5:57 PM 11-13-2009
[QUOTE=elRey]I guess you're asking how the 1.8T wheel is postioned (turned) in relation to the dizzy shaft/cam key. All the pictures I have are posted in this thread. The best advise I can give is to
1) find a mk4 2.0L or 1.8T and look at it with motor set at TDC and note which way the trigger wheel turns. Determine without a shodow of a doubt which window's edge is TDC at the hall sensor.
2) mount the dizzy so you can adjust it both ways if needed. set motor AND head to TDC and note which way the dizzy turns. Then hold the 1.8T trigger wheel against the dizzy so that the previously determined TDC window edge is in the center of the dizzy hall sensor.
2) mark the 1.8T wheel and the dizzy shaft.
Done. (besides doing the work <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://is.rely.net/2-64-38733-l-006e1ozlIle2NBIL2h5Dw.gif" BORDER="0">)
Modified by elRey at 4:49 PM 11-6-2009[/QUOTE
interesting if thats how you do it why not pull off the 2L one from the inside of the cam and then mount it to the outside of the new cam and then use the 2L Sensor by making a bracket?
im going to be looking for a different way i dont really like the dizzy way..... im hoping to block that side off
as for the 2.5L coil packs i went to a buddy at the dealer and i think i know know what is going on..... the 2.5L ones are a little longer and a little skinnier right?..... looks like it.... what im wondering is if they will fit in between the intake runners?
also with that tensioner do you know which one to use apparently there are
like 3 I saw one that required an aditional piece in order to lock in place you
wouldnt have a part number or more detail on it would
you?
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by:
duke_seb at 6:02 PM 11-13-2009
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
| One more thing that I may have left out... 1.8T water pipe is needed. The 2.0L 8v one will interfere with the head. |
just to let you know i didnt need this..... I acutally got one and then it agravated me so i didnt use it......
that one stupid bolt on the back of the block that holds the piece in I
couldnt get it out so i just cut the bracket and then adjusted it a little down
and then rewelded it back up again..... it is only about a 1/4"
off
Post Title: Re: (2LTurbo)
Posted by:
Shifty at 6:18 PM 11-13-2009
LOL Man I wish you were closer to me... I'd pay you to help me on mine.
So I'm trying to get the final bits in order - namely vac lines, fuel lines, and the dizzy. Dizzy's no problem, pretty confident on that. Fuel lines are OK too. Vac lines might require some trial and error... Now I see that Beetle oil cap riser, which I thought was purely for convinience, and I notice it looks like it's a vent hose. Am I right? Is there any way around using that part?
Sorry Rey, I'm just excited about getting ours running and I trust your
advice.
Post Title: Re: (Shifty)
Posted by:
elRey at 5:13 PM 11-23-2009
Sorry for the lack of responses. This thread must have dropped off my recent topic list.
for modifying the coolant pipe to make it work.
I explored the 2.0L trigger wheel on the back of the 1.8T cam gear. The issue is that the 16v head will need some machining to fit the 2.0L hall sensor under the 1.8T cam gear. I didn't know how much material is in that area of the head. The modified dizzy seemed to be a much more straight forward mod that I could do myself. Other options I considered was fab'ing a custom bracket to hold the trigger wheel and be able to bolt the 1.8T hall sensor housing. This would require design time and access to a machine shop which was very limited to me.
For the New Beetle Valve cover breather... You need to vent the crankcase.
Another option would be to vent it from the oil filter bracket like on the 1.8Ts
(they use both).
Post Title: Re: FV-QR
(TightDub)
Posted by: TightDub at 6:13 PM 1-21-2010
| Quote, originally posted by TightDub » |
| Missed the build but this is awesome
|
Contemplating this swap on the beetle Rey. Lining up my pieces slowly..I
talked to Scott(Assist Motorsoprts) about it your name came up quick... he spoke
highly of your skills which is a compliment from him.
Post
Title:
Posted by: sauron18 at 8:29 PM 1-21-2010
elRey, how much hp and torq are you making after the turbo installed?
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: DubChub at 10:40 AM 1-27-2010
| Quote, originally posted by elRey » |
The exhaust leak is from a threaded hole in the mani I have yet to find a bolt to plug it. |
this was a while ago, so you probably already found one. And I'm not 100% on 16v manifolds... And this may also sound a bit strange.. But....
Do you have any spare wheel bolts? (I've done this on ABA/Early 8v
Manifolds.)
Post Title: Re: (DubChub)
Posted by:
elRey at 2:46 PM 2-25-2010
Yeah, I had it covered moments after I post that way back. I believe it was a M10x1 (fine) bolt. However, that manifold's been long gone
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by: mannythechamp at 11:52 PM 3-22-2010
rey can u help me ??? plzzz
im reallly interested into doing this swap since it isnt very inexpensive to
do considering getting a deal with the 16v head now i have an AEG 8v 2.0 on a
2000 golf i want to do this i just want to know if its something attainable in
an easy way or should i just stick to a new autotech cam and springs..
help
me out i read that if i dnt turbo this setup i actually loose CR is that true
what do you recommend so many people telling me different things and i dont know
what to do anymore
well anyways i appreciate the help thanks man
manny
Post Title: Re: (mannythechamp)
Posted
by: elRey at 11:19 PM 3-23-2010
major obstacles:
- custom coolant flange adapter
- custom throttle body adapter
- cam
position sensor (dizzy)
Post Title: Re: (elRey)
Posted by:
mannythechamp at 11:56 PM 3-23-2010
do i need new pistons to not loose CR because i cnt afford boost right
now
thanks